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This section of the website contains information about Members travels outide the Costa Blanca area.
Members Reports Members Stories
Destination Tarifa - By John and Michelle Edwards - September 2009.
Day One - Monday 14th September
Michelle and I left home, in San Miguel de Salinas, on the morning of Monday 14th September heading inland for Los Teatinos, Sierra de Segura, where we were to meet up with Wendy and Mel Squires. We left there just before mid-day in their Nissan Terrano and once outside the gate we were watching for anything that moved. We wondered if we would get to 100 different species – so we looked in earnest from the first moment. We took the mountain road towards Huescar and we were soon rewarded. Our tally on this road were twenty species which included Mistle Thrush, Corn Buntings, migrating House Martins and Swifts, and of the larger kind, Short toed Eagle, Peregrine Falcon and Griffon Vulture.
Our first stop that night was scheduled for Loja just west of Granada. This town is just north of A392 which runs from Granada to Antequera. Mel found this hotel on the Internet and at €29 per night for a double – it was a bargain. There was a restaurant and a bar on the premises as well. The hotel is part of a small chain called Manzanil and is on the outskirts of the town, so check on the others with the same name before booking. We arrived in the late afternoon and after booking in, we still had plenty of daylight. We had already looked at the maps and could see that there was a large embalse, Iznajar, situated north of A392. We decided to take a look and once off the metalled road and onto an un-made one, we were amongst olive groves. Here we found a very busy flock of Azure winged Magpies. Such a joy to see with good clear views of them more than once. There was also a Kestrel nicely perched. Another joy, was to see a hare running in front of us. They are so good to see and I can never get enough of seeing them running so free. Following our noses we could see the water and the river running into it. The water level, being lower than it had been, had exposed muddy shores. More than 60 Cormorants were perched on every protruding stick. There were 30 plus Grey Heron, Common Teal some smaller waders, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Shoveler and a first for all of us a Ruddy Shelduck. Over head were Buzzard, Honey Buzzard, Red Kite, Short toed Eagle and Booted Eagle. House Martin again and a Red-rumped Swallow. All along this country road were scattered bushes and trees which were alive with smaller varieties and we were lucky to see a Spotted Fly Catcher amongst others. Bee Eaters were still around to be seen and heard. However, the gem of the day was a perched and very visible Black winged Kite with Osprey flying in the background. Next time, and now that we know where it is, we will allow more time for a visit. Our total for the day – 49 different species. Other mammals that day were red squirrel and pipistrelle bats, to go with the magnificent hares.
Day 2 – Tuesday 15th September
We were away and on the road by 7.30am heading initially west and then heading for the coast at Malaga. Passing through a mountainous area we saw our only sighting of mountain goats – two nannies with two kids climbing a rocky face. Here we heard Chough and then saw two fly on the same rock- face. We had taken the main road to Malaga N331 but we decided to go on a more scenic rural route and so we turned left onto C340 and then joined up with A356 to arrive at the coast near Velez. We had already prepared a list of sites that we would be passing and could stop off for, without wasting any time. After all, out destination was going to be Tarifa and the raptor watch points. We had examined John Butler’s book and looked at all his likely sites together with Malcolm Palmer's suggestions from his book. Arriving at the coast we made The Rio Velez, our first stop off point. This site is situated 35 kms east of Malaga near Torre del Mar. Travelling on N340 we crossed Rio Velez and turned left at km 269. This is a cross roads with an ancient tower in a field right by it. We missed it the first time but found it without too much bother. We particularly hoped to find Black rumped Waxbills in the artichoke fields but the artichokes had been cleared and there was no sign of these birds. However, we now had a fresh water site abutting on to the beach. Gulls appeared on our list and these included the Greater and Lesser black Backed, and both Black headed and Mediterranean Gull and Terns were flying over the sea. Yellow Wagtails were plentiful and so were Turtle Doves. Recent rains had made some of the area muddy and this could cause problems for the unwary. This supposedly was a naturist beach and there certainly was some activity. However, do not be put off for we did not see anything untoward. This is a site that deserved more time and would be on our list to re-visit.
We thought we might have trouble in finding our next site because extensive road works had been carried out in the area. However, we found ourselves in an open area alongside an industrial one and this is where we had lunch . A Short toed Eagle flew around for us and we watched the flights in and out of nearby Malaga Airport. After lunch and after driving through a residential area we found Paraje Natural del Rio Gualdalhorce – and we were glad that we did. On the side of this residential area is a substantial drainage ditch with plenty of water in it. The water in the ditch held back from the sea by a sandbar. To gain access to the park we walked along the beach and entered the actual reserve. It was very dry for the most part but still had several substantial areas with water. Again our time was limited but here we saw Spoonbill, Common Sandpiper, Little Egret, Little Grebe, Greenshank, Avocet, Shoveler, Pochard and the two best ones - Kingfisher and White headed Duck. We could see a small hawk/falcon in a distant tree but we were unable to identify it. Our bird list total for the day was 65, but not all new ones of course. We wished that we could have stayed longer and we all would like to go back again.
This site is in full view of the road and the road bridge which we could see and this is how we exited the site. So for access - when you are travelling away from Malaga and you cross The Rio Guadalhorce (Km234) the park is on your left looking towards the sea. You do need to take the next available left but remember that you are on a dual carriageway and so you will have to leave and either cross or go under the road that you were travelling on. Good luck. Information on both of these sites can be obtained via the internet and this can, not only give details regarding the locations of them, but also information about the site is and what you might see there. We still had time to divert to Casares. This is just a few miles inland and on the edge of Sierra de Bermeja. The journey to it was very good, mountainous scenery with a large number of raptors flying just over head. The village of Cacares was reputed to have a population of Lesser Kestrels and we wanted to add these to our list but there were none on view. The wind at this point was very strong and the birds were having to battle against it. We thought that we might stay overnight here but there was little accommodation any where. It was not a place that we would return to as we found it both expensive and ‘touristy’ We still needed accommodation for the second night so we still headed back to the coast to continue south. We need not have worried for we found simple, clean and cheap accommodation (€30 per double) at a hostel (bar with rooms). This was near Sotogrande between N340 and the motorway and was easy to find. Upon reflection we could have travelled further on and reached the Tarifa area.
Day Three - Wednesday 16th September
We left our overnight stop at 7am and soon we had passed both La Linea and Algeciras. We had booked two nights accommodation at Meson de Sancho which is situated halfway between Algeciras and Tarifa. The cost here was €60 per night and drinks were very expensive. I think that we will choose a different venue next time. On to Tarifa where we breakfasted and on the way we could see birds flying over head and so we were looking forward to being able to stop and observe. The winds were strong this morning and we could see the birds battling with it – not only raptors but the likes of swallows and martins. We decided to explore west of Tarifa and we travelled as far as ‘Marismas de Barbate’. This is a significant area of estuarine habitat with numerous channels and exposed mud. However, it is tidal and when we were there the tide was rapidly coming. We had good views of Bar tailed Godwits, Greenshank and Redshank as well as Dunlin, Ringed Plover and Egret. The winds were still strong so we decided to explore the region around Facinas and Sierra de Ojen. We were soon heading into the mountains and then we saw a lone Ruppell’s Vulture. There were raptors flying as well, although not that many, but it began to rain which fortunately was only of short duration. We ‘picnicked’ at the side of the road and we were entertained by a Short toed Eagle and about 50 Bee Eaters. Afterwards we went back to sea level and visited ALGARROBO watch point. The wind was strong and gusting but there was much to see. These points are manned by paid staff and by volunteers. They basically identify and count what is flying over. They have significant skills and we found them very helpful. Highlights of this day were numerous but it is an amazing sight to see 30 Black Storks circling in the wind. Kites, Honey Buzzards, Osprey and various eagles and harriers all flew over. Our tally for the day was 41 birds - this included the Ruppell’s Vulture and a White rumped Swift - firsts for all of us. We thought this was good with the exploration we had undertaken that day. Next time we will have considerably more knowledge and be more focused. We spent our evening in Tarifa and found it a good place to be. Maybe our stay will be in that town next time.
Tarifa - Points worth noting. Observation points are listed in Butlers Book. Pages 221/2. They are off road but accessible and give excellent view of the area. They are manned with recorders and volunteers and information is therefore available. Direction of wind and strength important. Tarifa has much to offer – worth researching before a visit. Information points – Look for these. There is one on the road into Tarifa and another one heading west towards Barbate.
Day Four - Thursday 17th September
This was our last day and we were determined to make the most of it. We were out at daybreak to see what was in the area around Meson de Sancho. At the back of the villas were cork oak with an under storey. We saw nothing outstanding but added Blackcap and Blue Tit to the list. There was much activity and the dense undergrowth made vision difficult but we could hear a Robin singing. Overhead there were around 60 Black Storks circling and a Short toed Eagle, two Peregrine Falcons and several Griffon Vultures were flying around. Not bad for before breakfast. We made the short journey into Tarifa and there were 40 plus Sanderling on the beach by the causeway to Isla de Tarifa. (There was no access to the island ) All the time there were raptors flying overhead. We visited three observation points AGORROBO, TRAFICO AND CAZALLA during the day and the sightings were excellent. Some birds were high in the sky but others were much closer and some were flying below us – so that we could see clearly their upper plumage. The total birds for all these sites that were recorded for the previous day was 5000 and for this morning was over 3000 - so you can see the volume passing through. I made a note of the rarities recorded at Cazalla for the previous day and they were as follows:- Long legged Buzzard, Honey Buzzard, Ruppell’s Vulture, Lanner Falcon, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Lesser spotted Eagle and also a sub species of Buzzard from Scandinavia recorded as buteo buteo vulpinus- see page 120 of’ Guia de Aves’).
We were given information about the location of Glossy Ibis, Stork and Lesser Kestrels. To reach this location we took the road towards Barbate and at CA2221- signed to Zanhara, we took the unmade road opposite. This led us into a rice growing area with controlled irrigation. There were many ditches and one 10 metre wide waterway. Our day just got better (if that was possible) Black Stork feeding with Glossy Ibis close by – all clearly visible with binoculars and scope. With the stork flying and settling back down again there was plenty of activity. At the same time there were also low flying Marsh Harriers and a male Montague’s Harrier. We drove along the river bank where there were a large number of Turtle Doves and a predating Sparrowhawk kept making passes. We also had some amazing views of Lesser Kestrels. We were told that there was a Black winged Kite a short distance away but we did not see this one. The light was starting to fade so we had to leave. We will remember this evening and hope to repeat it.
Day Five - Friday 18th September
We had already decided to start our return journey this morning to take in more sites. Heading north we took the A369 to Ronda hoping to see passage birds. We did not see anything of note and so carried on. We wanted to look at the area west of Antequerra which includes Embalse del Guadalhorce and Laguna Fuente de Piedra. Water levels were very low and in some places non-existent due to the hot summer. We spent little time there but we know that should return again because of the importance of the sites. We still had plenty of daylight left and we went once again to Embalse de Iznajar. The warblers obliged and Cetti’s, Melodious and Subalpine Warbler were added to our list. On way we had a great view of a female Sparrowhawk.We stayed in Antequera overnight and originally we had intended to spend more time at the locations referred to for Friday. However, we decided to carry on and see what we could see travelling through the mountains. A good moment for us was to see a female red deer with a good size fawn. Once past Huescar we did stop and in one location we saw a Coal Tit and a Bearded Tit in the same tree. Having added these to our list we then saw a Water Pipit. A good spot and unexpected but giving us a total of 124 species for the trip. Planning is essential but once in the Tarifa area there is much that is obvious. Research of the available web sites will, however, be of considerable help.
Web administrator's note: A useful leaflet is available and this contains a map of the best places to visit. I have a copy of this leaflet which can be provided on request as I am not able to place a copy on the website! The website Migration in the Straits of Gibraltar also contains useful information. Note: If you type 'fundacionmigres' into Google you can ask Google to translate the website into English.
Looking for Iberian Lynx in Andalucia - December 2009 - By Julian Sykes
Sunday December 6th - I drove down from Alicante this afternoon and arrived at our hotel in the Sierra de Andujar. With about an hour's light left I set off to the local Iberian Lynx watch point where I enjoyed views of Red Deer, Iberian Magpies, two Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Kingfisher and loads of Cormorants.
Monday December 7th - Returned to the same area today and saw 100's of Iberian Magpies, a few Hawfinches, Sparrowhawk, several Iberian Green and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, several Nuthatches, Crested, Long tailed, Coal, Blue and Great Tits, Rock Bunting, Kingfisher, Common Sandpiper, Grey and White Wagtails, Chaffinches, Greenfinches, Spotless Starlings, Blackbird, Crag Martins, Mallard, Moorhen, Grey Heron, Woodlark, Chiffchaffs, Blackcaps and Black Redstarts. The highlight of the morning was getting fabulous views of an Otter as it hunted for fish in the river just below where I was. After lunch I visited another area which is good for Iberian Lynx and on the way there I saw many Red Deer, a Black Vulture, Short toed Treecreeper, Red legged Partridge, Red billed Chough, Sparrowhawk, Blue Rock Thrush, Mistle Thrushes and lots more Iberian Magpies. The major disappointment, however, was learning that a group of Spanish observers were watching a Lynx while I was a little further down the hill and out of sight of it!
Tuesday 8th December - The second full day in the Sierra de Andujar and I was up early and driving to the watch point at Los Escoriales where I found a few observers already there. On the way there I found a Red Fox and a party of Fallow Deer. At the watch point the bad weather and fog made looking for Lynx almost impossible, so I left and continued down the hill to the Embalse de Jandula where I spent some time finding a gorgeous Firecrest, Rock Bunting, Black Redstart, Robin and lots of Cormorants in the reservoir. I later returned to the Lynx watch point but the conditions were still poor so I made the decision to go back to the hotel and have some lunch and a siesta as I was feeling incredibly tired - what a mistake! By 2pm I was back out and the weather seemed to be improving, so I returned towards Los Escoriales but instead of going straight to the watch point I took a detour to the Los Alancones Mirador. This was good as I passed through some of the most pristine dehesa I have seen where magnificent fighting bulls roam. Here I also found plenty of birds including Little Owl, Hoopoes, Corn Buntings, Meadow Pipits, Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Chaffinches, Common Buzzard, White Wagtails, Stonechats, Mistle and Song Thrushes, Blackbirds, Sardinian Warbler and Chiffchaffs.
After this I headed for the Lynx area and en-route met a group of observers coming away who I had met that morning and I asked how they had done. I could have been slapped in the face with a wet Kipper as the news of their four sightings rang around in my head. However they did finish with "you shouldn't have a problem seeing one"! I wasn't that confident after the last couple of days. I headed back to the watch point and spoke to the few people there who said they had seen nothing yet, and my heart sank. However after half an hour one guy said "I have a Lynx but it's a bit distant", I got on to the Iberian Lynx and it was far off and difficult to discern as it lay on top of a rock. However after five minutes it stood up and through the telescope looked magnificent standing there in all it's glory. It jumped down from the rock and padded away slowly, unfortunately in the wrong direction and was soon lost to sight. Still it was a fantastic experience and a privilege to see. We all waited until dusk but there were no more sightings that day.
Wednesday 9th December- The morning was a disappointment as thick fog spoilt our chances of finding a Lynx, however, a walk along the River Jandula produced several Hawfinches, Great Spotted and Iberian Green Woodpeckers, Kingfisher, Cetti's Warbler, Nuthatches, Iberian Magpies (actually these were everywhere), Short toed Treecreeper and plenty of other woodland species. I returned to the hotel for lunch and to relax while hoping for the mist to disperse. By 1:30pm it was clear again so I headed back up to Los Escoriales and met a few people at the watch point but they hadn't seen much. Quite soon after getting there a Black Vulture started the ball rolling and this was followed by a close Griffon Vulture and then a brilliant 1st winter Golden Eagle. Sergi then spotted an adult Spanish Imperial Eagle that pretty much soared right over our heads - absolutely incredible. Our spirits were high and we were determined to find a Lynx. We continued to search and I left the group to stand and watch another area, turned round and there about 100m away on the metalled track was an Iberian Lynx staring right at me. I couldn't believe my eyes. It then dropped off the road and down into the undergrowth so the others joined me and we tried to find it again. Sure enough I picked it up a bit further away and managed a quick photo before it again disappeared, however it again re-appeared and showed well to all but now about 400m away but still fantastic through the telescope. Eventually it disappeared although we suspect it just laid low until dusk as the attendant Magpies were still creating around that area. During this sequence another couple of Black Vultures flew close by being mobbed by a Sparrowhawk and Kestrel. The day closed with a spectacular sunset over the mountains as I returned to the hotel. It had been quite an incredible afternoon.
Photos - Black Vulture, Golden Eagle, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Red Deer, Iberian Lynx. - All photos by Julian Sykes
A Second Trip to Andalucia - October 2009 - By Mary Brazier
Having visited Mel and Wendy's excellent Rosa Blanca B and B in May, we were keen to make another trip to this wonderful area. Last week we spent a few days there and had a lovely, relaxing time. We weren't looking for an intensive birding experience, but we were still lucky enough to see the Black shouldered Kite which has been there for the last few weeks. Other birds seen during our trip included; Kestrel, Magpie, Griffon Vulture, White Wagtail, Starling, Chaffinch, Goldfinch, Subalpine Warbler, Merlin, Crow, Raven, Jackdaw, Yellow Wagtail, Chiffchaff, Black Redstart, Jay and Siskin. With the beautiful Poplar trees in their autumn colours, fantastic views whichever way you look, and the excellent food and hospitality provided by Mel and Wendy, we would once again recommended a visit here to anyone! Cortijo Rosa Blanca Bed and Breakfast
Black shouldered Kite Griffon Vultures
West Latvia Weekend - May 2009 - By Julian Sykes
This is a one day extract from Jules'report on a three day trip to Latvia. To read the full report visit Jules' website at Oliva Rama Tours & Holidays
Sunday 10th May :- An early morning walk around the grounds by yours truly (later joined by Graham) was very enjoyable, but cold, something I wasn't used to coming straight from Spain!. I covered most of the area slowly finding a few Ortolans, some showing very well indeed, plus lots of Woodlark, a pair of Nuthatches, White Storks nest, a group of Common Cranes bugled, Fieldfare, Song Thrush, Common Whitethroat, Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Chaffinches and Yellowhammers - simply wonderful. Graham & I met the others for breakfast, after which Janis arrived so we readied ourselves for a full day in the Kemeri National Park forest.
The first place we visited was the Sumragi Peninsular, which entails a long 8Km (there & back) through some old and rich woodland, which has become flooded due to Beaver activity. The walk started well with Woodlark, Whinchat, Common & Lesser WhitethroatTurtle Doves, Common Cuckoos, Wren, Dunnock, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Common Chiffchaff, Willow & Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Pied Flycatchers, Robin, Marsh, Coal, Great & Blue Tit, Nuthatch, Eurasian Treecreeper, Jay, Chaffinches, Greenfinches and Goldfinches. The going was fairly slow and at one stop we enjoyed good views of a pair of Green Sandpipers sat on a pine tree, which Sue thought was bizarre. Shortly after this Agi found one of the ‘bird’s of the day’ with a very smart Nutcracker. Unfortunately it didn't stay long enough for us to put the telescope on it, still most of the group had a decent view. Hazel Grouse made their shrill calls from the edge of the track but could we locate one – not a chance. Then at the end of the track we had our first view of a woodpecker species with excellent views of a male Black Woodpecker. However birds weren't the only feature of the morning as we also found many more interesting things include a recent spoor and a half-eaten boar, certain evidence that Wolves are not too far away in this area. Butterflies included the gorgeous Camberwell Beauty plus Brimstone, Peacock, Map Butterfly and a Hairy Emerald dragonfly, which looked resplendent in the late morning sun.
The walk back was quicker as lunch was beckoning but myself, Graham & Mike happened on to a family of Wild Boar, which luckily headed into the woodland, as they have been known to attack!!!. Back at the minibus we enjoyed our picnic lunch sat on the bridge and the forward party of Janis, Agi, Sue & Phil enjoyed good views of a Grass Snake swimming in the river. During lunch we watched a female Hen Harrier crossing over one of the open areas, and overhead flew a couple of Common Buzzards. The plan now was to head for another area of ancient ‘raised bog’ woodland at Livberze Forest, for another shorter walk. This was fairly difficult as the humid conditions had also brought out the mosquitoes but we persevered. Unfortunately though we didn't see much different from the morning walk apart from a Hawfinch and a heard-only White backed Woodpecker (although Janis did get a brief flight view). So again it was made interesting by the finding of a few other creatures such as Sand Lizard (well done Mike), Common Toad and Common Frog, plus a few Comma Butterflies. Our ‘day of woodpeckers’ wasn't going as planned but Janis knows this National Park intimately and our final chance was at Smirdgravis (smelly channel). We arrived and had no sooner set and Janis found our first (female) of a pair of White backed Woodpeckers, and during the next hour we got fabulous views of both coming to a nest hole. Janis then whistled in a male Grey Headed Woodpecker, which was quickly followed by a female Black Woodpecker. A Lesser Spotted Woodpecker called but could not be located and the final ‘pica’ was (incredibly) our only Great Spotted Woodpecker of the day. We weren't complaining though!. Whilst all this was going on an Osprey flew over, perched for a while near a White tailed Eagle’s nest. When the huge adult White tailed Eagle lifted to the edge of the eyrie the Osprey panicked and started mobbing it (my goodness). We watched a pair of Common Cuckoos copulating, Phil skillfully picked out a pair of Bullfinches and a nice group of Siskin. Graham found a nice obliging Pied Flycatcher close to where we were, 2 Grey Herons flew over and another tree-dwelling pair of Green Sandpipers made a very strange sight.
It had been a phenomenal end to the day and a big pat on the back to Janis for his perseverance. The journey back to the hotel was punctuated with a stop at the supermarket to pick up essential liquid refreshments by my unique group. During which Janis and I had a scan around the car park and found a Northern Wheatear, Jackdaw and a couple of Herring Gulls. We got back to the Jaunmokas Pils in time for a quick shower before heading for our evening meal. While waiting for everyone to gather Phil & I found a Spotted Flycatcher and 2 Common Swifts amongst the other hirundines, rounding the day off nicely.
Birding in The Pyrenees and Picos de Europa - May 2009 - By Julian Sykes
I have just returned from (almost) back to back short breaks to arguably the best mountains ranges Spain has to offer, along with their associated Plains area to the south. The first was with Robert & Kathy Dowsett, Jim & Viv Harvey to the Belchite Plains and the Aragon Pyrenees where we were searching for Dupont's Lark, Citril Finch, Wallcreeper, Lammergeier, Red necked Nightjar, Ortolan Bunting, Rufous tailed Rock Thrush, Western Orphean & Western Bonelli's Warblers. Luckily we managed to find all of these species and many more, making for a wonderful 5 night break.
This was quickly followed by a trip to the Sierra de Culebra & Picos de Europa with it's unbelievably stunning scenery and wildlife to match. This was a combined trip with tourist company Planet Whale and 2 ladies from Singapore - Kim & Betty. Again the targets achieved included a pair of Wallcreepers, Snowfinches, Alpine Accentors, Alpine Choughs, Black Stork, Great Bustards, Honey Buzzard, Lesser Kestrels, Red backed Shrike, Iberian Chiffchaff, Western Orphean Warbler and Ortolan Bunting. Plus lots of reptiles and amphibeans such as Bocage's Wall & Iberian Rock Lizards, Marbled & Alpine Newts, Fire Salamander, Schreiber's Green & Ocellated Lizards. Mammals included Rebeco (Chamois), Red Fox, Marmots, Soprano's Pipestrelle, Red & Roe Deer. Brilliant!
Alpine Accentor, Wallcreeper and Picos View by Julian Sykes©
Birding in Andalucia - May 2009 - By Mary Brazier
Day 1
We left home at 11.00am on a bright Sunday morning on our way to the village of Los Teatinos in the Jaén province of Andalucia. We headed across country, via the roads close to El Hondo, to join the A7 motorway at Crevillente. Before long we had seen Kestrel, Little Owl, Swift, Collared Dove, Montagu’s Harrier, Cattle Egret, Swallow and a Roller.The first part of the journey was a breeze, consisting of the A7 motorway to Murcia, the C415 motorway to Caravaca de La Cruz and a good two-way road to Puebla de Don Fabrique. In this area we added a Magpie and a Booted Eagle to our list for the journey. At Puebla de Don Fabrique we turned right onto the mountain road towards Santiago de la Espada. From here it was just 38 kilometres to our destination, but it seemed longer as we were now climbing up and over the mountain on a very winding road. The scenery here was amazing with rocky outcrops, pine woods and the occasional grassy clearing. From this road we saw our first Griffon Vulture of the trip.
Eventually, the road began to descend and we passed a large green sign welcoming us to the Jaén Province and crossed a bridge over a small river. From here it was just a few miles to the turn-off to La Matea. We drove through this small village and were at last at Rosa Blanca B & B, on the edge of the small village of Los Teatinos, a journey of around three hours and 241 kilometres. What a place! Set in a valley with a cluster of small villages, hamlets and farmland, and surrounded by mountains it really is a spectacular location! We were surprised to learn that the altitude of the village is about the same height as the peak of Ben Nevis! On arrival at Rosa Blanca we were welcomed by our hosts, Mel and Wendy, who offered us a choice of refreshments. We opted for a most welcome cup of tea with biscuits, and enjoyed watching goldfinches in the garden.
Having recovered from the journey we were keen to explore the immediate area and headed off up the hill opposite. Griffon Vultures could be seen flying over the nearby peaks and a Subalpine Warbler was identified after reference to our trusty field guide. House Sparrows, Blackbirds and Crows were numerous, as were the local sheep and goats. After a rest, a shower and an excellent three course meal, which I think can best be described as ‘Good Yorkshire Food’, we headed off for a short evening stroll and added a Nightingale to our bird list for the day. In the evening we could hear owls calling, including an Eagle Owl and the illusive little Scops Owl.
Day 2
Refreshed after a good sleep and a hearty cooked breakfast we set off, with a well used map and some directions from Mel, towards Embalse de Tranco (Tranco Reservoir). A short stop at a local gorge provided Magpie, Griffon Vulture and an Orphean Warbler for today’s list. We drove up and down this road a few times hunting for my husband, John’s sunglasses which he had placed on the roof of the car, eventually finding them in the middle of the road! Our first stop along the new road towards Hornos del Segura, was to see the source of the Segura River adding a Yellow Wagtail to the list here. Next we headed up a slightly bumpy track to the top of some cliffs where numerous Northern Wheatear and Thekla Lark showed nicely. A Cuckoo could be heard but proved impossible to see.
We headed back down the track and turned off the main road again at the village of La Platera Passing the village we arrived at the lake, turned left and drove around the edge before stopping in the pine woods for a picnic. Many birds could be heard singing in the trees, but seeing them was another thing. Chaffinches, a Jay and a Long tailed Tit were seen and Great Tit could be heard. The lake does not hold many birds but we did spot a Grey Heron and a Great Crested Grebe. After lunch we headed back in the direction we had come, passing the road from La Platera, and continuing around the lake. As we came to the edge of the tree line we were looking for our ‘target bird’ for the day and, unbelievably, there it was, exactly where Mel had predicted! A beautiful Azure winged Magpie flew from a branch just on our left and into the clearing towards a small olive tree! Within moments a second bird appeared and they both flew in and out of the trees for a few minutes before disappearing into the woods and out of sight. Brilliant!
Crows and Jackdaws were also seen in this area before we headed uphill and through the little town of Hornos del Segura, where Swallows were added to our list. Leaving Hornos del Segura we had great views down to the lake before climbing up and over the mountains on the old road back towards Santiago de la Espada. We were on the lookout for raptors but not a single one showed itself that day! We did see Hoopoe and Linnet and, while stopped for a cup of tea from our flask, a Short toed Treecreeper could be seen moving from tree to tree. We arrived back at Rosa Blanca and as we reported back to Mel on our excellent day out, a Raven flew right over the garden!
Day 3
A short trip out with Mel today found us at the site of a nearby, disused fish farm for a riverside walk along the gorge. Here we found Bonelli’s Warbler, Melodious Warbler, Nightingale, Black Redstart, Spotless Starling, Blackbird, Thekla Lark, Yellow Wagtail, Chaffinch, Booted Eagle, Griffon Vulture, Chough, Jackdaw, Rock Sparrow, Rock Dove, Magpie, Hoopoe, Swift, Kestrel and Swallow. Today’s ‘target bird’ was a Golden Oriele and John and Mel managed to see both a male and female in a Poplar tree, while I was clearly in the wrong place at the wrong time!! Very frustrating! Mel also showed us some caves containing amazing, and presumably, quite ancient cave paintings which have probably been seen by relatively few people, this being such an isolated spot.
Cave Paintings - Photo by Mel Squires©
Day 4
All too soon it was time for us to head home and with heavy hearts we set off over the mountain once again, but not before adding Great Tit and Blue Tit (on Mel and Wendy‘s garden feeders) to today’s list. I was feeling a little despondent after ‘dipping out’ on the Golden Oriele but was keeping an eye on all the poplar trees just in case. Close to a place called La Vidriera, I suddenly spotted a yellow flash flying out of a Poplar and into a Pine tree, and shouted to John to “stop the car!!” Luckily this road is not exactly busy and as he reversed back slowly I saw ‘my’ Golden Oriele flying back out of the Pine, towards the ground and out of sight. Brilliant! During our leisurely drive back over the mountain we added Jay, Chaffinch, Coal Tit, Song Thrush, Red legged Partridge, Magpie, Crow, Rock Bunting, Hoopoe and Swift to the list.
After leaving the mountain road and heading across more open countryside and farmland, we added Kestrel, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Crested Lark, Booted Eagle and Corn Bunting. After leaving the motorway again at Crevillente and passing close to El Hondo we had a great view of a Roller sitting on a wire and flying to the ground before heading back up to sit on top of an electricity pylon. Finally heading back across the Santa Pola Salinas, we were able to add the ‘usual suspects’ of Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Little Tern, Yellow legged Gull, Black winged Stilt, House Martin, Avocet, Greater Flamingo and Shelduck.
All in all an excellent trip and one I would recommend to anyone. See Cortijo Rosa Blanca Bed and Breakfast for details of the B & B and the surrounding area.
Albufera d'Valencia and Moro Marsh - April 2009 - By Julian Sykes
This is a one day extract from Jules'report on a longer birding trip in the Valencia Region. To read the full report visit Jules' website at Oliva Rama Tours & Holidays
We entered the vast network of rice fields at Albufera d'Valencia most of which were unfortunately dry but a group of gulls and some terns brought us to a halt. Here we found a nice flock of Gull billed & Whiskered Terns collecting insects and amphibians from the newly-turned soil, along with lots of Black headed & Yellow legged Gulls. A Squacco Heron flew out of dyke, and was quickly followed by at least two more, lots of Cattle Egrets and a mixed flock of Goldfinch and Serin feeding on the flowers at the side of the road. We carried on through the paddyfields to El Saler, a delightful village on the edge of the Albufera lake and reputedly the home of paella. Just outside El Saler we saw a Purple Gallinule at the edge of one of the canals before reaching a small council-run nature reserve - Raco d'Olla.
We walked through the pine woodland and added Turtle Dove and Sardinian Warbler. Around the lagoons there was a Cetti's Warbler,two Avocets and Common Terns flew around calling. However it was from the hide that we enjoyed incredible views of a couple of islands stacked with gulls & terns. The gulls were mainly Black headed Gulls, but there were also two groups of 'pink' Slender billed Gulls, all displaying by lifting and shaking their heads at one another. Summer plumage Mediterranean Gulls postured amongst the black-heads showing just how different these birds are to their chocolate-headed cousins. It was a magnificent sight and definitely one of the highlights of the trip for everyone. A Marbled Duck flew around but unfortunately landed out of sight as did a Kingfisher two or three times, which was a little frustrating. It was now nearing lunchtime so we made our way back to the picnic tables at the entrance and enjoyed a fine spread, while sat in the warm sunshine.
After lunch we headed off once more towards Valencia and made our way through the city to the northern extremity and the coastal wetland of Moro Marsh. This for it's size and position (sandwiched between Valencia & Sagunto) must be one of the best wetlands along the Spanish Mediterranean coastline. Our first stop was at a small pool near the entrance and although it was generally quiet produced brilliant views of an adult male Little Bittern, along with a few Black winged Stilt, Coot and Moorhen. Audouin's Gulls were passing north constantly on their way to the Ebro Delta to breed and at the first viewing platform we saw Little and Great Crested Grebes, Cormorant, Purple and Grey Herons, a single Greater Flamingo, Mallard, Red Crested and Common Pochard with Eurasian Reed and Great Reed Warblers singing constantly, and Common Swifts, House Martins and Swallows hawking insects. Along the beach we flushed a couple of Turtle Doves and saw our first Northern Wheatear of the trip before arriving at the 'pratincole lagoon'. A high bank now surrounds this shallow lagoon with islands to stop over-disturbance but the wardens have built a make-shift hide from which to view it. As usual it did not disappoint as we got tremendous views of breeding Collared Pratincoles, and Common and Little Terns just in front of where we stood. We stayed for quite some time watching the birds come and go, as well as a few Common Redshank, Wood and Common Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Great Reed Warblers, Yellow Wagtail, another Northern Wheatear, a pair of Stonechats and Crested Larks.
Birding in England - March/April 2009 - By Mary Brazier
Northumberland - We were spending a week in a cottage in the small village of Embleton on the North East coast. This area is a favourite place of ours and since we started taking an interest in birds just a few years ago, we have discovered it is a great place to see them.
Cresswell and Druridge Pools and Hauxley Nature Reserve - 28th March 2009
Our first day in Northumberland found us enduring typical English weather which was wet, windy and cold. Undeterred we dressed appropriately and set off towards the small village of Cresswell where we would start making our way back up the coast towards our base. Our first stop was the beach at Cresswell where we could just make out through the mist, Oystercatchers, Eider Ducks, Herring Gulls and a Pied Wagtail. Our next stop was at Cresswell Pools which consists of a series of small pools and flooded fields which attract a good selection of water birds and waders. We set off across a narrow, muddy path between the pools and some marshy wetlands but were unable to proceed due to the strength of the wind which was so fierce I swear it nearly blew us off our feet! Luckily, before we retreated back to the car we did spot a Red Breasted Merganser heading across one of the pools. From the safety of our car we added Black headed Gull, Tufted Duck, Magpie, Crow, Teal, Wigeon, Greylag Goose, Grey Heron, Mallard, Redshank, Lapwing and Curlew to our list. A little further along the same road we reached Druridge Pools which provided at least some shelter in the form of a few hides, although we only added Pheasant, Canada Goose and Cormorant to the species already seen.
From here we drove to Druridge Country Park for our picnic lunch and were able to park the car overlooking the lake thus preventing us having to brave the cold for a time. It was at this location last year that I found and managed to identify my first Common Gull, which as an inexperienced birder, was a great source of satisfaction to me. Happily, this year several Common Gulls were in attendance amongst the noisier Black headed and larger Herring Gulls. Not many birds were braving the lake in the wind but we managed to add Gadwall, Mute Swan and Moorhen to the list. Our final stop was the excellent Hauxley Nature Reserve near the little town of Amble. The reserve consists of a large lake with several islands in the middle and has a wooded area, adjacent farmland and a small deserted beach opposite to Coquet Island, which is known as a local site for Roseate Tern. The reserve has three well maintained hides, one near to the car park and one on either side of the lake allowing you to choose the east or the west hide according to the time of day and the location of the sun. We chose the West hide and immediately picked up a pair of Red Breasted Mergansers, a bird I had seen here for the first time last year. A good selection of birds seem to visit this reserve and we added Shelduck, Whooper Swan, Jack Snipe, Whimbrel, Lesser black backed Gull, Goldeneye, Wood Pigeon, Chaffinch, Starling, Blackbird, Jackdaw, Rook, Robin and Sanderling bringing our total to 38 birds for the day.
A Trip to the Farne Islands - 1st April 2009
It was a mild and sunny day when we left our cottage to catch a boat from Seahouses to the Farne Islands. We have been before so we were dressed for a cold and wet journey over the North Sea, including waterproof jackets and trousers, wellies, hats, scarves and gloves. On one previous visit the sea was so rough that every time the boat hit a wave everyone on the boat got completely drenched, to the extent that every item of clothing, right down to our underwear, was absolutely soaked. On this occasion, however, once we left the harbour we realised we were slightly overdressed as the sea was like a lake with not a wave to be seen, it was so calm we even saw a harbour porpoise breaking the surface of the sea not far from the boat.
Within 30 minutes we were landing on Inner Farne and heading off across the island to the sea cliffs on the far side, a mere five minute walk. At this point the birds nest so close to the viewing area you could literally touch them, although I wouldn’t advise it! Here we had excellent views of a number of pairs of Shag and Razorbill, and Kittiwakes and Guillemots were everywhere, although most of the latter were a little further away on top of a large stack. The other favourite bird of the area is, of course, the Puffin and these nest in burrows in the grassy areas on top of the island. They are again very easy to see, although they prefer to stay a bit further away from the paths and the people. I found they were a little more confiding on this trip, perhaps because we were there on April 1st which was the first day of the year when the island was open to visitors. I felt the birds must have been wondering where all the people had come from as they normally only see the few wardens who live on the island to care for and monitor the seabirds and the seals.
As we were visiting in April we were too early to experience the large Tern colonies which nest here every summer, normally including Common, Arctic and Sandwich Tern. Some might see this as a blessing as the Terns do tend to attack the visitors to protect their nests which are often very close to the pathways. A peck on the head can draw blood and is quite painful, and if they don’t get you this was they do tend to use you as a toilet!
Many small migrants are known to land on the Farnes as it may be the first land fall they come to when arriving from the east, but the only small birds we spotted were Linnet and Pied Wagtail. After a walk round the island to see more Puffins in and around their burrows, it was back to the jetty to get the boat. While waiting for the boat we had a look around the rocks by the sea shore and found other interesting specimens, such as, Oystercatcher, Redshank, Great black backed Gull, Ringed Plover, Turnstone, Cormorant, and Fulmar which were nesting on low cliffs at the back of the beach.
On the return trip the boat took us round some of the other islands where there were many more birds, along with Atlantic Grey seals hauled up on the rocks and apparently viewing us with as much curiosity as we were them. We returned to Seahouses for a picnic in the car overlooking the rocky coast and it was here we saw the bizarre sight of one Herring Gull standing on top of another one! Overall, we had a great trip and will no doubt return to this wonderful place next spring, if not before. Additional Birds seen in Northumberland included Yellowhammer, Blue Tit, Tree Sparrow, Buzzard, House Sparrow, Meadow Pipit, Rock Pipit, Stonechat, Skylark, Great Crested Grebe, Greenfinch, Red legged Partridge, Dunnock, Bar tailed Godwit, Dunlin, Grey Partridge and Reed Bunting.
Staffordshire - When we are in England we stay in a static caravan on a quiet country site near to the village of Brewood in Staffordshire. This is a great location close to a rural canal, farmland and the excellent Belvide Nature Reserve which we have access to through our membership of the West Midlands Bird Club.
A Walk Round Belvide - 6th April 2009
A walk round this reserve is always a pleasure and a good selection of birds are normally in attendance, as proved to be the case on this occasion. Our first stop was the feeding station in the woods where we saw the usual Great Tit, Blue Tit, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Tree Sparrow, Reed Bunting, Dunnock, Pheasant and Nuthatch. From here we walked to the second hide which overlooks the lake as well as a feeding station of hanging feeders and a large bird table. Here, at last, I saw my first Brambling which has been my target bird since I have been back in the UK. Sadly, it didn’t stay long but we observed many other birds, including Goldfinch, feeding at close quarters, which is always enjoyable to watch.
From here we moved on to the new, double-decker hide at the furthest point of the reserve where it is possible to see a small island in the lake which often attracts interesting waders. Unfortunatley, there was too much water in the resevoir on this day so the only birds on the island were a few Oystercatchers and Canada Geese. There were some birds on the water though so we added Great Crested Grebe, Mute Swan, Shelduck, Mallard, Gadwall, Wigeon, Tufted Duck, Goldeneye and Coot to our list. Finallly, we made our way back to the first hide which overlooks the main part of the lake, including a couple of tern rafts which have been nest sites for a few pairs of common terns for the last couple of summers and indeed four Common Terns were noted. From this hide we were lucky enough to have good views of, not one, but two Kingfishers sitting on branches amongst the reed beds and generally flitting about the area. We also added Pochard and Moorhen to our list. During our walks between the hides we also spotted Buzzard, Wood Pigeon, Collared Dove, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Robin, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Wren, Magpie and Crow. All in all another good days birding. Additional Birds seen in and around Staffordshire included Bullfinch (Cannock Chase) and Tree creeper (Attingham Park, Shropshire, NT.)
Bulgaria - Geese & Raptors - February 2009 - By Julian Sykes
This is a one day extract from Jules'report on a three day trip to Bulgaria. To read the full report visit Jules' website at Oliva Rama Tours & Holidays
Wednesday February 4th :- Our first full day in the field started early with a dawn arrival at the very impressive Durankulak Lake. As we exited the mini-bus we could see the harriers leaving their reedbed roost. Firstly it was Hen Harriers who mainly left the area to the surrounding agricultural fields, followed by lots of Marsh Harriers. We walked towards the waters edge and there in the centre was a huge flock of Red breasted Geese, it was incredible. We could hear their distinctive calls over the 1000’s of White fronted Geese, which were already leaving the overnight safety of the lake to feed in the surrounding fields. As it started to get lighter the mass flew up and over our heads, it was simply amazing to see 3000+ Red breasted Geese at one time, and watched as they headed north to the Romanian Border. It was now fairly light despite the overcast conditions so our guide, Dimiter suggested we stayed around that area to look for any other birds, and in the next hour we saw Great Crested Grebes, Pygmy & Great Cormorants, Mute Swans, Mallard, Teal, Pochard, Coot, Yellow legged Gulls, Skylarks, Greenfinches, Great & Blue Tits and heard Water Rail, Bearded Reedlings, Penduline Tits, Moustached & Cetti’s Warblers.
Eventually we returned to the vehicle but Dimiter wanted us to check the large flock of White fronted Geese that had landed near another lagoon. We made our way slowly along a couple of embankments adding Red Crested Pochard, Gadwall and Wigeon until we were quite close to the flock. Immediately we found 40+ Red breasted Geese near to where we were, but then Dimi said he had found an adult Lesser White fronted Goose at the front edge of the flock. During the next couple of hours we carefully watched these birds, taking photographs and enjoying the spectacle, and also seeing Great Bittern, 4 Great White Egrets, Common Buzzards, more Marsh & Hen Harriers, Kestrel, Sparrowhawk, Water Pipits and Hooded Crows. It was fabulous, despite the cold and biting wind. It was now time for lunch, which was a picnic so we returned to the mini-bus as we were going to a nearby camp-site to eat it. Just before we got back an immature White tailed Eagle drifted over much to the pleasure of our group but not the vast goose flock, which went into a slight panic at the huge raptor.
Soon we were on our way and at the entrance to this coastal site we saw our first Whooper Swan on a small roadside lake. Although the site was officially closed for the Winter Dimi chatted to the owner (& local mayor) and he kindly put the kettle on. So while waiting for the coffee we looked out over the bay finding two Mediterranean Gulls along with Black headed and Common Gulls on the beach, and lots of Black necked Grebes and Coots offshore. The hot drinks were very welcome and whilst having our lunch we added Red breasted Merganser and Shag to our growing list. We said our “thank yous and goodbyes” to the proprietor and left for our afternoon’s destination – Shabla Lakes. We disembarked just inland from the coast at a small wood next to a lake, and as we walked along the road a woodpecker called not far away, this was a Great Spotted Woodpecker. Then another flew in and this was slightly different – a male Syrian Woodpecker, another of our target species. Over the next half hour we remained in the area getting views of a pair of Syrian & Great Spotted Woodpeckers, plus Hawfinches, Chaffinches, Siskin and Goldfinches.
Next we checked the lake and found a few early waders including a surprise Ruff, 2 Little Stints, a few Dunlin and Common Redshanks, also here were a couple of Shelducks, Wigeon, and Teal. We returned to the wooded area and found 40+ Fieldfare had landed in the tree-tops and a Pheasant flew up from the side of the track. Before leaving we checked the coast but it was fairly quiet with only the only a Red breasted Merganser, a few Black necked Grebes and Coot to be seen. Nearby we visited another lake - Tuzla in the Shabla area, where we remained until dusk. We soon found the usual duck species along with Little & Blacked necked Grebes, then Jan found a distant female Smew another nice addition to the list. As the afternoon drew to a close lots of Corn Buntings, Greenfinches and Chaffinches sat on the overhead wires and bushes in readiness for roosting, and 1000’s of Starlings gathered over reeds and created their sky-dance before disappearing to roost. So ended our first very full day in Bulgaria and what a success it had been.